Saturday, April 16, 2011

FO: Eva Dress Trousers 3322 (40's style)

I officially love wide-legged trousers!

I saw this pattern made up by Susannah of Cargo Cult Craft (the same lady who sold me the South Riding Blouse pattern) and thought it offered just the right amount of swishiness for warmer days. You could wear french knickers under here without a VPL (just saying!).

I just noticed the dog's expression...!

I cut a size 16 (1940's sizing) but a 14 would have been big enough. After being measured, I took the seams in by about 1/4" each. As the pattern only has 1/2" seam allowances, this was easy enough, with no excess fabric to cut away, but of course it slowed me down having to unpick, press, sew, press. But there is no rush, Roo, so just get on with it!

It seems like a very simple-to-make style, but I stumbled a bit with the side facings. You cut a 3" wide bias piece out of your leftover fabric for the front facing, and a 4 1/2" wide piece lengthways for the back "underlap".

When I sewed on the waistband, I stitched along the top of the underlap, folding it under as I went. I still stare at the diagram and come to the same mistaken conclusion about what is intended - duh! Perfect if you want a stick-out-at-the sides belt feature and your knickers on display down the gap!

I have scoured the web for pattern reviews and found that other sewists thought that the waistband was cut too short. Several people have opted to sew in a zip rather than buttons and I have to say I thought I might have to do the same, but I really wanted the buttoned side feature, so I cut the underlap free at the top and bias-bound the raw edge.

Fudgery at its best! But I will remember next time! I will - because I wrote myself a note and drew a picture!

The instructions are typically 1940's in style - reliant mostly on minimal diagrams and the sewer's own experience.

I liked the fact that the waistband is sewn onto the inside and then topstitched in place on the outside. So often, I have been instructed to sew to the outside and turn to the inside... and then been forced to handstitch the band into place for fear of wonky misaligned machine stitching appearing on the upper surface.

I hemmed them at a length to suit my new two-tone shoes - woo hoo! I had to turn under a whopping 6 inches, then double it back to the upper side to form the turn-ups.


Pattern: Eva Dress 3322, a reproduction of a 1940's Simplicity design, multi-sized. I cut size 16, but 14 would have been fine.

Fabric: 2 metres of navy cotton trousering from Croft Mill - only just enough fabric! I wouldn't risk it next time - another 30cm would have been sensible. Gorgeous swishy fabric.

Buttons: Modern plastic with an anchor design. From eeebaaay. In retrospect, I would have preferred vintage buttons but I bought these specifically for these trousers, and they look fine, so all's good.

Verdict?: A real case of attention deficit sewing malfunction disorder! Luckily all is forgiven because I love the end result. Are these my favourite trousers? Could be!


Sarah said...

Fabulous trousers!! I'm on the hunt for the same patterns now, but without having to spend $24 US on shipping!! :S

ashley0107 said...

Gorgeous! I love the button up side too.
I've wanted to make some trousers for a while, but one of the things that has put me off is finding fabric that would be suitable. I've had croft mill bookmarked for ages, but never thought to search for 'trousering'! Duh!! lol. Now to start searching for a trousers pattern! :) Thanks!
Ashley x

Kestrel said...

They look great, and a it's a lovely outfit with the blouse too. Well done!

Linda said...

The side-buttoning is a great detail and much better than a zip. Is that your brogues I see you wearing?

didyoumakethat said...

Wheee! Glad you've had trouser success. I really want to make a pair of wide leg trousers. Love those buttons.

christinelaennec said...

Those are fabulous! You look great in them and so comfy as well. The buttons are exactly the same as the ones on U.S. Navy wool sailor trousers that I used to wear in the 1970s. They may be more retro than you think!

Sigrid said...

I really love those, and they are the perfect foil for the Sencha top. I agree, thay have to have the button side.

Lorna said...

"I could while away the hours......" If only I could sew. I'll always be the scarecrow :-(

kbenco said...

I covet such fabulous trousers. They look terrific. Thanks for the tips on your side button fastening.

Cathy said...

I must be bonkers because I find it more satisfying to mess up /misunderstand the pattern and do it my way...well when I fudge it better to fit well at least!lol

Jane said...

They're lovely and you look fabulous in them. Glad you persevered with the button fly - that's my favourite detail! x

Sandy said...

Well-staged photos of you in those fab trousers and FL must be so proud of your sewing skills, even if he probably - like most men - doesn't say so. You overshadow those daffodils!

Roobeedoo said...

Thank you everyone! :)
And yes - those are indeed my new brogues.
By the way, this blouse is not a Sencha. I blogged it here:

faeriecollege said...

I just ordered that pattern, and dropped my sewing machine off at the repair shop. Your fault, all your fault! I wish I looked as cool as you.

Minnado said...

I love these trousers. They look fab on you. You are inspiring me to make some too. I have been wanting dark navy trousers for a long time as like you I have too many patterned tops and too few plain bottom half garments.

Scruffybadger said...

Oooo how perfect are these? Apart from really suiting you & looking so stylish the details are just fab. Now I am jealous (& kind of wish my recent navy trews could have been wider, but never mind!)
So when are you going to make the dungarees?