Sunday, October 09, 2011

Zip-pity Boo Blah

This weekend I have been working on my mushroom madness skirt.

It is view 3 of Colette Ginger, so bias cut with a plain but high waistband.

I lined it with blackand white pin-dots.

It will be hemmed with gingham bias binding.

And this is my first ever invisible zip fastening, which is, frankly, a thing of beauty to behold, thanks to the Colette online tutorial.
Yet again I found myself eke-ing out a tiny piece of fabric to make a Ginger!  You would have thought I would have learned my lesson by now.  This is now the third time I have had to compromise to make it work.

This time I had a full metre of fabric... but I hadn't realised it was only 45" wide, not 60" as before. Nooooooooo! 

Any ideas I might have had about matching my mushrooms were curtailed.  I didn't even have enough fabric to line the waistband!  Luckily I had some plain purple cotton leftover from a previous project.
So, yes, everything was going pretty well.  There were fungi cartwheeling trippily on the bias, there was a danged sharp turn at the top of my waistband, and fizzy dots in my lining.

And then I went to try it on.

And this is how far my zip ascends...

This far, and no further.

It was operating perfectly smoothly until now.  I have tweaked it, I have prodded it, I have used brute force, but it will go no higher.  I can only imagine that I have stitched it too close to the teeth in my quest for perfection.

So now what?  I don't want to risk unpicking it as I think the bias-cut fabric will stretch out of shape in the process.

I am thinking of sewing on a piece of corset tape for a funky hook-and-eye feature centre back?
Or maybe a couple of fabric loops and buttons, as on the back of the Lisette Portfolio?
Tell me sew-ists:  what would YOU do?


ashley0107 said...

Oh no!! How annoying. Hmm, I think I would go for fabric loops and buttons. That would look lovely.
I love your lining! Such a cool contrast to the mushrooms :)
Ashley x

Lorna said...

What about a frog closure (I didn't know that was what they were called when I was trying to look them up!)

Or am I just being too crazy?

Madelaine said...

I had the exact same issue on my Ginger. I just ran the zipper up and down over and over until it decided to go over the seam cross point, but it took a good half hour of trying and a lot of fear I was going to rip it right out of the skirt. Not good, but it seems okayish now. It still sticks at that one point frequently.

I'm considering taking apart the seams right at the edge and cutting the zipper off before the waistband and just using hooks and eyes at the top.

Good luck, and I hope it works out!

Ozzy Blackbeard said...

I don't like mushrooms, but I LOVE your skirt!! And the lining is fab. I think loops and buttons would look great.

Anna said...

I'd unpick it, just the bit where it's sticking if possible and re-sew just that bit. Using something else as a closure would annoy me if it was supposed to zip all the way to the top and with a good shot of steam you should be able to take care of any odd stretching out that may happen. If there is odd stretching then it's on your back so you'll never see it anyway!

Love the fabric!

christinelaennec said...

So sorry to hear a sewing gremlin crept into this beautiful skirt. I second the idea of loops and buttons. Can you make a wee tab to fold under the small gap below the loops and tabs? Make it a design feature, out of the polka dots.

P.S. Funny post title! You are very funny in adversity Roobeedoo.

Hatty said...

Try running a soft graphite pencil over both sides of the zip a few times. It "oils" the zip. It's very traditional but it can work. But not if you have sewn over the zip links. I would redo the zip myself if you can't free it up. If you have interfaced around it, it shouldn't stretch out.

Alessa said...

Oh, I hate it when something like that happens... What a lovely skirt, though! Purple, mushrooms *and* polka-dot linking! I think you could try and re-stitch it just at the part where it hitches. I like the loops-and-buttons idea too, though!

Urban Rustic said...

I am a big fan of invisible zips and use them whenever I can even in vintage patterns.I don't even have the proper zip foot just a regular one and it seems to work all right.However,whenever I do have a problem it is at exactly the same point that you have that is where there is a seam.Somehow they don't seem to like the little bit of extra bulk.I would try a gentle bit of unpicking and trimming any excess fabric away that you dare get away with and stitch again.It seems a shame to have a zip that won't close properly.Love the fabric by the way.

Myrna said...

When this has happened to me, I've restitched slightly over just at the stuck point and only after that taken out the stitches. It seemed to work. Good luck.

Lizzi said...

I think Myrna's idea is best but back it up with the loops and buttons with some fabric behind a la Christinelaennec. The old 'pencil on the zip' trick doesn't seem to work so well if it is a nylon zip but was great with the metal ones.
I do share your frustration tho' - these things always seem to go right until the eleventh hour and - just when you think the job's a good 'un something comes along to bite you in the old whatsit.

You'll fix it - have faith. :-)