Sunday, May 11, 2014

FO: Chemisier Berthe from Un Ete Couture

With Pattern Runway Sweet Scalloped Shorts
Stats:
Pattern:  Chemisier Berthe from the book "Un Ete Couture" by Geraldine Debeauvais (La Republique du Chiffon), size small, lengthened by 10cm.
Fabric:  1 metre of 112cm-wide striped cotton poplin.  I bought mine for £5.25 (+ £1.25 postage) from Oh Sew Crafty on ebay, but Croft Mill sells it too (£6.95 per metre + £5.95 postage for a standard parcel -  worth it if you are stocking up the stash with a big order).  The collar and front bands are made of Supersonic white cotton lawn from Croft Mill.  This stuff is £12 per metre but is worth every penny - seriously gorgeous!
Other:  Vintage dark pink buttons from stash (found in a local charity shop for pennies); woven interfacing; thread.
Budgie print ironing board cover from Cath Kidston
Process:
I had planned to use a 1960's pattern with this striped fabric, but I had not realised how narrow it was until it arrived.  The vintage pattern had all-in-one facings which were extensions of the fronts, and I couldn't squeeze it out of my single metre of cloth.
I had seen several lovely versions of the Berthe blouse on French sewing blogs. The original design is a flirty crop-top with a longer back.  Several stitchers were surprised by just how short the front turned out.  I added a full 10cm back and front, in the interests of middle-aged decency.
The only way I could make the pattern fit my fabric was to play with the stripes. I cut the back and one front "sideways" and the final front with the stripes running vertically.
With all that madness going on, I decided to add a plain white collar and front bands.
That white cotton is of such a beautiful quality!  I am looking forward to sewing a whole shirt out of the remainder of my piece. It made the collar construction quite joyful:  creating clean crisp edges, but super-soft to the touch.  It was really easy to trim down the seams for a sharp finish without fear of fraying.
I must praise the designer for the collar instructions and diagrams.  It all fitted together perfectly, despite my fear of tackling a "collar stand" (in French!).
The armholes are finished with self fabric facings. As with the Robe Eleonore, the facing pattern pieces are drawn as part of the main bodice.  It is a good idea to trace them off separately, to avoid confusion if you choose to make the blouse a second time at some future date.  I have written myself a note... but will I remember?

Verdict?
I enjoyed sewing this blouse so much, that its wearability is almost secondary!
It all went together so smoothly, with matching stripes and perfectly-aligned collar and collar-stand - crikey!  It's a miracle!
I definitely needed every centimetre of my front length extension.
Several other stitchers have expressed concern at the absence of bust darts, but the slightly a-line cut works for me without them.
I tend to prefer a short sleeve, rather than no sleeve, and the armhole is a little too deep for me.  I would tweak that if I were to make it again.  But I expect to be wearing a cardigan on top most of the time "in real life"!
Tucked in and buttoned up, with Peggy skirt
In summary?  Another hit from Un Ete Couture!  I can't wait to get going on another pattern from this collection - I'm on a roll!

21 comments:

verykerryberry said...

Nice style, looks sharp on with the white contrasts. Great make!

clb said...

Love what you did with the stripes! So chic.

Jane said...

You ARE on a roll, it turned out beautifully. I love it tucked in, it looks so classy! x

poppyinstitches said...

Love it, the stripes are a wonderful detail! So going to have to get the book and stopped being scared of my school girl French.

azterya said...

Wow! It's lovely.

Flossie in Stitches said...

I absolutely love the way you have used the stripes! Beautiful!

Helen said...

This is beautiful, and I love what you have done with the stripes, and the white contrast. It just works. Another work appropriate garment do you think? I think so!

christinelaennec said...

You are a genius! C'est génial!

beate grigutsch said...

radiant!

Donna Hensley said...

Beautiful - you look very confident! And sexy, if I might add :) Good work!

emily said...

wow, what a beautiful crisp collar! Bravo!

Cazz said...

Collar is perfect and I love the effect if the stripes going different ways. It looks a little bulgey at the under arm, but that might the photos.
Suits you really we'll, but I agree little sleeves or cap sleeves would be better.

Nessie said...

Gorgeous! love how you have done the stripes.

opportunityknits said...

Such a pretty and cheery blouse! Love the creativity when you come up with something so pretty from lack of fabric!

pootleandmake said...

Love the stripes. It's very Paul Smith. It's great what you've done with just a meter of fabric. I love Republique due Chiffon patterns.

Nita said...

Oooooooo, that is really sharp! Nice job!

jessica said...

Looks awesome! And I totally thought the stripes were a deliberate design element :-). Nice!

purlgurl said...

Your chemise is amazing. I'm so eager to try, but am only an advanced beginner sewist, and my french is rusty. Is it worth a shot?

Cherrypix said...

Your stripe placement is inspired! As are the white collar and placket. Very fresh and edgy!

Cherrypix said...

Your stripe placement is inspired! As are the white collar and placket. Very fresh and edgy!

acharmofmagpies said...

Love what you did with the stripes and the white contrast! Fantastic. Also, that coral lippy looks amazing on you.