Sunday, November 08, 2015

FO: A Simple Coat

It is 7 years since I made a coat.
Alas, when it came out of storage this time around it was almost bald in places.  I had washed it before putting it away, and the wool had finally given up its fluff.
Time for another.

In the quest for a substitute, I fell for this herringbone wool mix from Sherwoods Fabrics. The fabric is lighter in weight than I expected, with a perilously open weave.  So a fairly dense lining was essential.  I settled on a black paisley satin from Minerva Crafts.  It is soft and drapey and works well with the airy herringbone.

I decided to use the Maya dress pattern, my go-to pattern of 2015, adding simple sleeves with darts below the elbow to control the width.

I wanted to avoid visible stitching, so made bagged hems, slip stitching the lining to the facings by hand.

A coat without pockets is of no use to me, so I drafted a couple of big fellas :)
They are lined.
Those wrinkles are caused by the phone in my pocket... just as well I added the lining or they would have sagged down to my knees in no time at all.

The vintage buttons were an Etsy find, all the way from Vancouver.
That's my carbon footprint thoroughly muddied.
Sorry, planet, but I love them.

I considered making bound buttonholes, but was worried that the fabric was too unstable.
Instead, I followed the instructions in my sewing machine manual for a "buttonhole gimp".  This involved stitching a fine cord into the edges of the buttonhole to add strength.  I am really pleased at how well these turned out.


Pattern:  Maya by Marilla Walker with self-drafted sleeves (with thanks to a vintage Simplicity blouse pattern), in size 2.

Fabric:  Herringbone wool mix from Sherwoods fabrics and black paisley lining from Minerva Crafts.

Other:  Vintage buttons from Etsy.  Black satin bias binding from stash (ebay, years ago).  Thread.


I wanted a "dressing up" coat.
It is of no earthly use to me around the farm, but I work in the city in an increasingly grown-up job and sometimes I need to look like I actually belong there.

Is it the coat of my dreams?
Um...  no... because that would be a shocking pink fun fur yeti coat ;)

Will I wear it?
Oh yes!

Will it require its own library of matching knits?

Absolutely - watch this space!

PS:  Worn here with my subversive schoolgirl Camber dress and neon mirrorball cowl.


Coco said...

How nice! I really like the simple lines and the big pockets. And the buttons rock!

Palava rakkaus, pikkusydän said...

That's one fine coat! Love the buttons, and the paisley lining is a nice touch.

Sarahel said...

This is terrific. Perfect combination of simple style and interesting fabric, and I love those buttons - totally worth the air miles. How easy was it to do the corded buttonholes? The guide to my ancient Bernina has a page on them but I've never yet tried.

TempestKnits said...

This is simply wonderful, Ruth! This lovely coat is exactly what I need - a collarless design. I just wish I had your sewing skills.

SewTypical said...

Love this coat - simple elegance!
(hoping to see a post about the shocking pink fun fur yeti coat you make next)
:-) chris

PaisleyPirouette said...

This coat is chic and integrates itself wonderfully in your wardrobe. Nothing against new knits. :)

Melissa said...

Congratulations,what a gorgeous coat! I am in awe of the fact that you made it out of the Maya, which is a great pattern by the way. I love the buttons! I'm curious of the name of the etsy shop as I live in Vancouver!

Bottom line - beautiful, wearable coat!

Ruth Wilson said...

Really lovely, it will be well used.

Roobeedoo said...

The corded buttonholes were fairly easy. I had to go over the cord twice because it was a bit too wide but that made a stronger edge. I used the Bernina instructions 😊

Roobeedoo said...

Hi Melissa - the shop is called True Value Vintage 😊

CarolS said...

I LOVE it, congratulations. I too would love a pink fur coat (I used to have a long green one and miss it so much.)

Sarah said...

This coat is utterly glorious! I love it!

jessica said...

Lovely! It hits that sweet spot of simple, understated, and chic. I almost want to copy you ...

Kerry Green said...

Beautifully elegant and the perfect vehicle for an excess of scarves!

poppyinstitches said...

fabulous coat and your machine did great button holes, my machine just won't on anything bulky/denim. Look great on you too!

beate grigutsch said...

was a silent reader for long time now - but this coat is soo gorgeous and i know your sewing habits a bit - so i have to comment: ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS!
in all ways - fabric, lining, design/pattern/cut, fitting!!!

lilysgrannie said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
lilysgrannie said...

I love your coat and the buttons are just right for it. Wear it in good health!

Lynne said...

Your coat is brilliant!! And I love the buttons.

sewstyled said...

Nice coat. It's so you with the buttonholes stitched in thread that matches the buttons, instead of the fabric.

Linda said...

Lovely coat! The buttons look like a good buy! Love that it is collarless so that you can wear your lovely scarves and shawls with it!

JustSewJenna said...

I have been loving seeing pictures of this coat emerge on instagram, it's gorgeous! I love the turquoisy buttons, and the colours in the tweed.

liza jane said...

Ooh, it's fabulous! I love the big pockets and turquoise buttons.